Bordeaux is the largest quality wine production region in the world, with around 900 million bottles of wine produced each year, a quarter of the entire French Appellation Controlee production. 90% of this is red and much is from the most basic quality level, Bordeaux AC. The remaining 10% includes fine age-worthy dry white wines and the greatest dessert wines in the world.

For the highest quality red wines, there are two key areas. The left bank comprises the Medoc, Haut-Medoc, Pessac-Leognan and Graves. The Haut-Medoc is further sub-divided into communes, of which the most significant are St Estephe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux. As elsewhere in Bordeaux the terrain is predominately flat: the best chateaux are situated on banks of gravel, or gravel mixed with clay, which slope gently to the Gironde river, allowing good drainage for the vines, which are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. Further south, the Pessac-Leognan appellation, on the outskirts of Bordeaux, also enjoys gravel soil suitable for the cultivation of Cabernet based wines.

Due to Bordeaux's function as a major port, its wines have for centuries had a thriving market well beyond the immediate region. The reputation of its wines was further enhanced when in 1855 the wines of the Medoc were classified into five categories, from first to fifth growth. With few exceptions the classification has remained unchanged: the major exception was when in 1973 Ch Mouton-Rothschild was promoted from deuxieme to premier cru status. Ch Haut-Brion, was, and remains, the only Graves wine to be included in the classification.

The two key appellations in the right bank are St Emilion and Pomerol. With a few exceptions the wines are dominated by the Merlot grape which performs well on the mixture of clay, gravel and sand found in those regions. The wines of St Emilion were first classified in 1955 and this has been revised on a regular basis. Currently (July 2008) the most recent revision has been suspended by a French court and chateaux are not allowed to refer to their status under the classification on their labels. Pomerol has never been classified, but many of its producers, led by Petrus, are recognized by the market as being among the finest in Bordeaux.

The best dry white wines from Bordeaux are generally produced from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with many benefiting from maturation in oak. Many of the finest examples originate from the Pessac-Leognan and Graves appellations.

Sauternes and Barsac are responsible for producing the world's finest dessert wines. In certain vintages, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes are affected by Botrytis Cinerea, otherwise known as "noble rot" leaving grapes with very high concentrations of sugar. This can result in great intensity and complexity and these sweet wines can be among the longest lived wines of all. The production technique and risks involved mean that these wines are inevitably expensive.

Bordeaux wines are traditionally first offered on the market through a system known as en primeur, referred to as "futures" in the USA. Wines are tasted in barrel in the spring following the vintage by the world's wine trade and by journalists. Wine merchants will select those wines they wish to offer to their customers and writers will make their recommendations using their marking systems (points out of a hundred / twenty etc). Merchants will then make an offer to their customers based on the price charged to them by the chateau. Buying wine in this way offers advantages to the purchaser but the system is not without its potential pitfalls.

The advantages are that the buyer secures wines at the opening price. Depending on the vintage and the prevailing economic conditions, the price may rise considerably by the time the wines are bottled and even further by the time the wines are mature and ready to drink. It may be particularly advantageous in the case of small production wines such as some chateaux in Pomerol and St Emilion. Prices for the best wines from good vintages have shown strong gains over the past two decades and demand for the top properties shows no sign of abating.

There are potential disadvantages to be aware of. Young Bordeaux tasted so soon after harvest can be extremely difficult to assess. Purchasers should consult a number of opinions before deciding to buy and be confident in the advice they receive from the vendor. There have been instances where poor, overpriced vintages have been offered at the same price, or even less after bottling and have failed to appreciate in value.

Burgundy is a unique region in that the finest wines are made exclusively from two grape varieties: Chardonnay for whites and Pinot Noir for red. Burgundy is also the region where the concept of terroir shows itself most convincingly in the subdivision of the best plots of land into often minute holdings, demarcated by different owners and quality classification.

The core of Burgundy is the Cote d'Or ("Golden Slope") which is further sub-divided into the Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune. Chablis is also considered to be part of Burgundy, despite its location around 100 miles to the north-west of the Cote d'Or. To the south of the Cote d'Or lies the Cote Chalonnaise, further south is Macon.

Chablis is renowned for its distinctive white wines which derive much of their character from the limestone soil of the appellation. There are four quality levels: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Chablis and Petit Chablis. Traditionally Chablis had little or no oak influence, but recently more producers have increased the oak input at Grand Cru and Premier Cru level.

Classification in the Cotes d'Or: at the highest level is Grand Cru (30 vineyards), followed by Premier Cru (561). Below this is Appellation Communale, wines named after a village such as Santenay or Meursault and lastly wines entitled only to the Bourgogne appellation. As well as considering the classification and the appellation it is vital to take into account both vintage and producer: a Bourgogne Rouge from a top producer in a good year can surpass another's Premier Cru in quality.

The Cote de Nuits is home to such names as Nuits-St-Georges, Gevry-Chambertin and Chambolle Musigny. Among the Grand Crus are Chambertin, Bonnes Mares and Clos de Vougeot. While a certain amount of white wine is produced, it is red which dominates here, in terms of both quality and quantity. This is the origin of the finest Pinot Noirs in the world.

The most famous names in the Cote de Beaune are the white wine producing villages of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Grands Crus are represented by Le Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. Red wines include Volnay, Pommard and Corton.

The Maconnais is dominated by white wines. The most famous name is Pouilly-Fuisse, but there are many other villages, many producing wines whose quality has greatly improved in recent years. Wines are often labeled Macon followed by the village name, such as Macon-Vergisson. Drinkers looking for Burgundy-style whites at affordable prices should get to know these wines.

Further south, the Beaujolais appellation produces large quantities of fruity red wine of varying quality from the Gamay grape.

The Rhone is the second biggest producing French appellation after Bordeaux. Red wine dominates. The Rhone valley naturally breaks into two parts, north and south.

The Northern Rhone is the home of the finest Syrah wines in the Old World, represented by Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Cornas, St Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. Small quantities of highly regarded white wines are made from the Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier varieties.

In the Southern Rhone the most illustrious name is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which famously allows up to thirteen different grape varieties in the blend. In practice the most important are Grenache, Mourevedre and Syrah, the trio which make up the blend of the surrounding Cotes du Rhone appellation. This is a promising area for those seeking a combination of character and value. Cotes du Rhone Villages is of higher quality and deserves special attention.

In many ways the least French of all the French appellations: wines are labeled varietally, and presented in tall green bottles, similar to those used across the Rhine in Germany. The grape varieties for quality wines are predominately Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Since 1983, fifty vineyards have been identified as superior and are allowed to carry the Grand Cru appellation. There is no Premier Cru in Alsace but late picked grapes may be used to make sweet wines labeled Vendage Tardive or Selection des Grains Nobles.

Champagne is produced in the north-east of France. The cool climate and chalk soil both contribute to the distinctive character which sets Champagne apart from all other sparkling wines. The only grape varieties allowed are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay; a Blanc de Blancs Champagne must be made exclusively from Chardonnay. Approximately 80% of all Champagne is labeled Non-Vintage ("NV"). Small quantities of rose and vintage Champagne are produced and even more limited are those wines referred to as prestige cuvees.

This is predominately rose territory, with about 80% of all production being various shades of pink. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah are frequent components in the blend. Quality can be patchy, but some producers are setting their ambitions higher. There are some interesting red wines, noticeably from the Bandol region where the Mourvedre grape is capable of producing age-worthy wines of character.

This extensive region covers many appellations, some of which produce wines of real quality. Among a sea of undistinguished wine, the Vin de Pays de l'Herault from Mas de Daumas Gassac, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, has power and style which bely its humble origins. Other appellations which can yield wines of interest include Minervois and Fitou.

Another speciality is sweet wines, made by the Vin Doux Naturel method where fermentation is stopped by the addition of grape spirit. These can be based both on Muscat and, more unusually, Grenache, in appellations such as Maury and Banyuls.

Along with Tuscany, Piedmont is responsible for Italy's finest red wines. Crisp, dry whites, from both local and imported varieties do feature, along with delicious sweet wines from the Moscato grape; however it is Barolo and Barbaresco which command attention. Both are made from the Nebbiolo grape, with an increasing tendency towards single vineyard wines. Quantities are often small and prices reflect worldwide demand. Dolcetto and Barbera are the other important red varieties and are more modestly priced.

Sangiovese - literally the blood of Jupiter - is the most widely planted variety in Italy, but it is in Tuscany that it finds its true potential at the core of some of Italy's most characterful red wines. Chianti's reputation has staged a major revival in recent years and there are some serious producers crafting delicious, stylish wines. Brunello di Montalcino has deservedly become one of Italy's most fashionable and prestigious reds. Many Tuscan producers have chosen to renounce the DOCG rules to produce wines from international varieties, mainly Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, either as monovarietals or as blends with Sangiovese. This is a region of rapid change and improving standards.

Until recently the south of Italy was synonymous with large quantities of indifferent wine destined for distillation, blending or as a base for Vermouth. Thanks to recent investment from more quality orientated producers and the determination of a new generation in some family owned concerns, there are now several interesting wines offering good value for money. Campania offers dry whites from the Fiano and Avellino varieties as well as excellent reds made from Aglianico. Further south, blends of local and international varieties make for good value, uncomplicated drinking.

Situated in the far north-east of Italy of Italy, bordering on Slovenia and Austria, Friuli's location has led to a proliferation of styles and grape varieties. White wines excel, due to the cool climate conditions and wine-making techniques which conserve the natural flavours of the grape. Both international and local varieties are employed; Pinot Grigio here shows much more class than many examples from elsewhere.

Now the biggest wine producing region in Italy, Veneto offers some vinous gems for those who know where to find them. Soave is too often bland and watery but when made predominantly from the Garganega grape rather than Trebbiano the result can be wines of great intensity and flavour. The most important reds are Bardolino and Valpolicella.